Last week saw the gathering of editors, buyers and bloggers to see in the first ever New York Fashion Week: Men’s, an initiative led by the CFDA to allow designers to show their collections separately from the constraints (and scheduling conflicts) of the women’s calendar.
With a more chilled out vibe and less of a well known front row (minus a Jonas brother), this New York fashion was far less ‘political’ and a refreshing change in the fashion calendar. Here is a run down of the stand out collections.
Calvin Klein Collection
T-shirts saw a upgrade into shiny jerseys, jeans and jackets that resembled denim but were actually constructed from engineered jacquard and bonded cotton. Italo Zucchelli’s also took utilitywear to modular levels with parkas, safari jackets and combat pants all sporting Velcro detachable pockets.
1950s style proved to be the motivates for Tommy Hilfiger SS16, yet every classic tailoring piece saw a novel contemporary twist; the cream suit- a summer staple – also came as a low slung trouser with a leather jacket. A double breasted suit also got the Breton treatment with nautical horizontal striping, which also found its way into a pair of tailored shorts.
Rock ’n’ roll and striped suiting? John Varvatos even got the catwalk covered in a stripy fabric to match. ouble breasted, single breasted, two-piece or three; never has the suit looked so subversive or so enticing. The collection was inspired by the Southern California music scene of the early Seventies when the area saw an influx of Brits (Keith Richards to Fleetwood Mac) who incorporated the elegant English tailoring with Californian cool. Pass the bandanas.
Move over the ‘it’ bags of the womenswear market. This season Michael Kors moved onto the accessories of the modern man. The men of New York are in favour of a tote worn on the crook of the elbow (think Victoria Beckham) and, come next season, will no doubt be toting the luxurious reversible versions shown by Mr Kors. All were made of soft fine slivers of leather, so wearable scrunched up under the arm. A perfect alternative should you not be quite ready to commit to the man-bag in its full glory.
Polo Ralph Lauren
A a three-piece suit in indigo denim saw jeans smartening up their act at Polo Ralph Lauren, while tweed took on a more sporty feel in a jacket with the addition of a pink popped collar. Black Watch tartan and cotton combat pants coated to resemble leather also saw a debut on Mr Lauren’s catwalk.
Watch out ladies fashion week, you have a cooler, more relaxed, less marketed show on your 6 inch Louboutins.
Follow Annabel Bolton on Twitter @Mascaramalteser