With perhaps less of a dash of the ethereal than was present on Saturday, yesterday’s shows represented a triumph of form over fancy.
Kenzo were first on our list, and we were pleased to report that all of the vibrant touches that are the cornerstone of this label were present in their AW15. Kenzo create clothes to live in, with a thorough knowledge of how the fabrics are going to move. This creates a beautiful fluidity in motion in even the sportiest themed ensembles
Emanuel Ungaro brought two extremes to their show, effortlessly blending a true strength of tailoring in their more masculine pieces with an appreciation of the delicacy of femininity at the other end of the spectrum.
At John Galliano there was a tad more restraint than we’d have liked to have seen but there were enough touches to keep us interested.
Prints were confident without crossing the line into stridency..betraying the knowledge of a master hand pulling the strings. We get the sense that Mr G is revealing his hand piece by piece, and we for one cannot wait to see what his next move will be.
Last on our last was Givenchy, whose fearsome, fearless walkers were a perfect celebration of International Women’s Day. This was top drawer stuff – opulent, rich..the product of a varied and again, fearless imagination. Fresh out of one winter, the reds and blacks made us crave another just to see these pieces in action on the red carpet.
In summary, a dark and delicious day that brought out the most wearable, yet most fabulous collections.
Monday awaits.
@after_nyne
(all images vogue.co.uk)